He worked for the Vermont Department of Health, monitoring water quality, but the guy sitting next to me on my flight into Burlington reminded me of my favorite high school English teacher. He had the bad suit, the wild beard, and the animated energy. Most of all he liked to talk and wasn't too interested in listening — OK by me.
Turns out my seatmate was a runner who just completed the Vermont City Marathon in Burlington a couple weeks ago. When I asked him where I should run, he drew a detailed map on a United Airlines cocktail napkin. His recommended an eight-mile course will take me through part of town and then to the
Burlington Bike Path, a rail-to-trail conversion path that runs along Lake Champlain and has views of the Adirondack Mountains. There are no bathrooms but "lots of woods."
Professor Vermont's son is a cross country and track runner at the University of Maine. Last year he and his girlfriend took a semester off school and, as Bill Bryson wrote about in
A Walk in the Woods (decent read), hiked the entire 2,100-mile-long Appalachian Trail, following spring from Georgia to Maine. Along the way they befriended a 40-year-old hiker named "Snowdog" who had been "voluntarily downsized" from his job at a St. Louis title insurance company and decided to spend six months walking. Add it to the list. I just need to come up with a cool trail name and six months of free time.
Other things I learned from Professor Vermont:
* He doesn't mind running in the subzero winter temperatures up here, but the ice and snow can make it tough.
* He almost hit a moose while driving last week.
* They're trying like hell to discourage sprawl but it's a struggle. New zoning regulations in his town require at least a 10-acre lot for every new home built.
* Vermont was the last U.S. state to allow Wal-Mart to build a store. Now there are four and many people are angry about that. But there are still no Lowe's. Vermont: You have been Activated.
* A lot of people come to Burlington for scuba diving and snorkelling in the green, murky water of Lake Champlain because there are many historic shipwrecks to explore. The tragedy, though, explained Professor Vermont, is that highly invasive zebra mussels have hitched a ride from European ships and are effectively destroying the lake's indigenous plant and animal species. Divers are frantically trying to photograph and document the underwater scenes now, as they may be completely covered within 10 years.
* We should hike up the 4,200-foot-high Mt. Mansfield, which is Vermont's highest peak and located in Underhill State Park. Are there bears? "Probably not." Add it to the list.
Thank you, Professor Vermont.
Last night I asked the bartender at the Ri Ra Irish pub what we should do. "Well, the weather's great, so you need to get out and recreate," she said. "Hike, kayak, bike. People around here tend to make their own fun." Done.
But first I need to buy some maple syrup-flavored Gatorade, jam to some Phish, and then drop in at the Starbuck's across the street from the hotel. It's another transnational chain store that's infiltrating and overrunning America, but some zebra mussels taste pretty damn good.